Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss: Iceland's Two Best Waterfalls

If you're driving the South Coast — and you almost certainly are — you'll pass both Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss on the same day. They're around 30 kilometres apart on Route 1, roughly 2 and 2.5 hours east of Reykjavík respectively. Most people tick both off in a half-day. That works, but you'll want to know what you're actually getting at each one before you show up.

Seljalandsfoss: The Walk-Behind Waterfall

Seljalandsfoss drops 60 metres off the edge of a former sea cliff and — this is the reason people stop — you can walk behind the curtain of water on a path that wraps around the back of the fall. The path is open most of the year, though it closes in winter when ice makes it too dangerous. Expect to get wet even with waterproofs on; the spray is heavy and the path runs close to the water.

Allow 30-45 minutes here. The walk around and behind the falls is short, but there's a second waterfall — Gljúfrabúi — tucked inside a narrow gorge about 200 metres north along the cliff face. Most visitors miss it entirely. You have to wade slightly into the canyon to see it properly, but it's worth the detour. There's a car park with toilets and a small café on site. Parking currently costs 900 ISK.

Morning light hits Seljalandsfoss well if you're after photos, though it faces roughly west, so afternoon and evening light can be good too in summer when the sun stays up late.

Skógafoss: Bigger, Louder, and Worth the Climb

Skógafoss is 60 metres tall and 25 metres wide, and it sits right at the end of the car park — you'll hear it before you see it. There's no walking behind this one, but you can get close enough to feel the spray from ground level, and there's a staircase to the right of the falls that climbs to the top of the cliff.

The climb is around 370 steps to the viewing platform at the top. It's not technical, but it's steep and the steps can be slippery when wet. From the top, you're standing level with the crest of the waterfall looking out over the coastal plain toward the sea. On a clear day the view stretches far. This is also the start of the Fimmvörðuháls trail, a well-known hiking route that passes between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers on the way to Þórsmörk.

Give Skógafoss at least 45 minutes — an hour if you're doing the climb. There's a campsite, guesthouse, café, and visitor facilities at the base. Parking is free here.

Which One Should You Prioritise?

If you only have time for one: Skógafoss is the more impressive waterfall by volume and scale. But Seljalandsfoss offers something Skógafoss doesn't — the walk-behind path — and that novelty genuinely changes how you experience it. Most itineraries include both, and since they're on the same road 30 minutes apart, skipping one doesn't save much time.

If you're based in Reykjavík, both waterfalls are easy to combine with other South Coast stops: Reynisfjara black sand beach, the Dyrhólaey cliffs, and the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon are all on the same route heading east. A full South Coast day tour will typically cover Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, Reynisfjara, and Dyrhólaey in one go — that's the most efficient way to do it without a car.

When to Visit

Both waterfalls run year-round and are worth visiting in every season. Winter visits mean fewer crowds and the possibility of ice formations around the falls, but the walk-behind path at Seljalandsfoss will likely be closed. Summer gives you longer daylight hours and full access to both sites. Spring and autumn tend to be quieter than peak July and August, when both car parks fill up early in the day.

One practical note: arrive at Seljalandsfoss before 9am or after 7pm in summer if you want space on the walk-behind path. Midday in July it can feel like a queue.

Both stops are straightforward to self-drive, but if you'd rather not navigate, South Coast day tours from Reykjavík include both waterfalls as standard stops. It's worth checking what else is included — some tours add glacier walks or boat trips on the glacier lagoon, which changes the day considerably.