Ísafjörður

The largest town in the Westfjords (about 2,600 people), built on a sand spit jutting into Skutulsfjörður and surrounded by steep mountains. It's the practical base for everything in the Westfjords — fuel, groceries, restaurants, and the starting point for boats to the Hornstrandir nature reserve, Iceland's most remote hiking area where Arctic foxes are so unafraid they'll walk right up to you.

The town has a surprisingly good food scene for its size. Tjöruhúsið serves whatever fish came in that morning, cooked simply and served on communal tables — book ahead, it's tiny. The Aldrei fór ég suður music festival at Easter draws Icelanders from across the country.

Ísafjörður is 450 km from Reykjavík (5-6 hours' drive via the Westfjords road, or a 40-minute flight). The drive is scenic but long and winding — domestic flights are worth considering if time is limited. The Westfjords in general require more driving than most people expect, so plan at least 2-3 days in the region.