Arnarstapi

The first thing that greets you in Arnarstapi is a big stone troll staring out to sea, while the terns scream at you from every direction. Not the warmest welcome. Stay anyway.

Arnarstapi is a tiny fishing village on the south coast of Snæfellsnes in West Iceland, right under the glacier Snæfellsjökull. There's not much of a village, honestly: a small harbour, a handful of houses and summer cottages, somewhere to get a coffee. What it has is a stretch of coastline that's among the best on the peninsula, with basalt cliffs, sea arches, blowholes and kittiwakes nesting in every crack.

Tours that visit Arnarstapi

top pick

Snæfellsnes Peninsula Tour

11 hours · From Reykjavík

4.9(1,592)

From 17.490 ISK

Snæfellsnes Peninsula Small Group Tour

11 hours · From Reykjavík

4.9(355)

From 19.490 ISK

popular

Snaefellsnes Peninsula Adventure: Small Group from Reykjavik

11 hours · From Reykjavík

4.9(874)

From 18.900 ISK

Snæfellsnes Peninsula Tour from Grundarfjordur Port

5 hours · From Grundarfjörður

4.4(173)

From 26.240 ISK

popular

Snaefellsnes Peninsula tour in Spanish: Small group from Reykjavik

11 hours · From Reykjavík

4.9(874)

From 18.900 ISK

Grundarfjordur Port: Small Group Snaefellsnes Peninsula from Cruise Terminal

5 hours · From Grundarfjörður

From 25.340 ISK

What to see in Arnarstapi

The troll is Bárður Snæfellsás, a half-human, half-troll figure from the old sagas who is said to have walked into the glacier and become its guardian spirit. The statue, by the sculptor Ragnar Kjartansson, is stacked from slabs of rock and makes a good first stop. From there it's a short walk to the cliffs and Gatklettur, a natural stone arch standing in the sea with the waves booming through it.

The main event is the coastal path from Arnarstapi to Hellnar. It's about 2.5 kilometres each way, mostly flat, and takes around 45 minutes to an hour one way at an easy pace, with the sea on one side and old, mossy lava on the other. Hellnar has a small café by the shore if you need a reward before walking back.

Stay on the path. The cliff edges are undercut in places and there are no fences, and the ground near the edge is often wet and slippery. On windy days, keep a sensible distance.

Pro tip: in early summer the Arctic terns nest right next to the paths, and they defend their chicks by dive-bombing anyone who walks by. They can peck hard. Do what the locals do: hold a stick or a hat above your head, keep moving, and don't linger near the nests.

How to get to Arnarstapi from Reykjavík

Arnarstapi is roughly two and a half hours' drive from Reykjavík, along the south side of Snæfellsnes. Give it at least an hour if you want the arch and a taste of the coastal path, or two if you want to walk all the way to Hellnar and back. It's also the natural starting point for a drive around the tip of the peninsula to Djúpalónssandur and on towards Kirkjufell.

Best time to visit Arnarstapi

Summer is lush and full of birdlife, and the light stays late. Winter is quieter and moodier, and the cliffs can be icy, so take care near the edge and on the path. With short winter days, Arnarstapi is often a morning stop on the way further west.

Arnarstapi is a regular stop on Snæfellsnes day tours from Reykjavík and from the cruise port in Grundarfjörður. Tours that include Arnarstapi are below.